Cumulus Machine Review: Fast, Foamy Cold Brew Coffee

But, about oxygen. The device essentially pumps pure air (79% nitrogen, 20% oxygen) into the coffee instead of using a nitro cartridge. That’s cool, but oxygen exposure is a known enemy of fresh coffee. After the nitro evaporates, a side-by-side taste test does show that the nitro has more of a loose, oxidative flavor than the base non-nitro.

But that didn’t show much when first coming off the machine. You’ll notice interesting bubbles that are exciting and also add sweetness. Those bubbles cover up many sins, creating a thick foam on top of the cold brew that looks to all the world like a poured Irish stout.

A Wired editor looked at photos of nitro-heavy cumulus clouds and gleefully suspected deception. “I swear they used Guinness for their promotional photos,” he wrote.

The espresso is equally effervescent, with thick and true crema created through the pressure exerted by the device’s powerful compressor. It was the natural foam of the Cumulus espresso itself that gave me a beautifully frothy martini – something I couldn’t get with hot or cold espresso.

A tribute to Virginia-based cocktail consultant and educator Josh Seaburg model citizen cocktaillooking for a good espresso martini recipe to try this thing out. For the record, this involves 1.5 ounces of vodka, 0.75 ounces of coffee liqueur (like Mr. Black), and half an ounce of simple syrup, mixed with one ounce of cold espresso. Mix, shake, pour. The device only makes two shots, so one capsule can deliver enough cold espresso for two cocktails.

Who is Cumulus suitable for?

On the one hand, Cumulus is an impressive piece of engineering—it succeeds in multiple areas where other device makers have failed.

But it’s not a device for coffee snobs. It’s best for those who value the convenience of a Keurig and aren’t too fussy, or those who naturally add milk, sugar or other flavors to their cold brew coffee. Cumulus doubles down on this flavored syrup From orange zest roncillo to cinnamon demerara.

Photo: Cumulus